Music Goes Where Politics Fears to Tread

Organizer Michael Dreyer couldn't have wished for a more impressive opening act -- one which perfectly illustrated the stated aim of the oriental music festival, which brings together both traditional and contemporary ensembles from various Middle East countries.

"It's all about building bridges between countries and cultures," Dreyer said.

So given the current stand-off between Iran and the international community, the appearance of the Tehran Symphony Orchestra was nothing less than a cultural-political sensation.

"Increasing the profile of Persian and Arab culture in Germany is currently an important task," said Osnabrück Mayor Hans-Jürgen Fip at the opening of the event, which lists Foreign Minister Frank-Walter Steinmeier as patron.

It's a task Dreyer was happy to tackle.

"Inviting an Iranian symphony orchestra to Europe in this day and age is an organizational marathon and a diplomatic feat," he said.

Once here, the musicians have found themselves the toast of the town, also scheduled to appear at the Berlin State Opera as guests of Daniel Barenboim.

Unpopular at home, popular abroad

Since the Islamic Revolution in 1978, Western music has been widely frowned upon in Iran. Nader Mashayekhi, the recently appointed director of the Tehran Symphony Orchestra, has made it his mission to encourage Iran in a greater understanding and appreciation of Europe's classical music tradition. But he also wants to show that Iran itself has something to contribute -- and sees his musicians as ambassadors of a more open-minded Iran than the one the world is used to.

"One of the major purposes of the orchestra is to demonstrate that even in Persia, people have studied the classics, such as Mozart and Beethoven," he said.

Hybrid forms

When Mashayekhi, who was based in Vienna for 30 years, returned to his Persian roots earlier this year, he resolved to introduce a broad repertoire that juxtaposed contemporary Iranian pieces with Tchaikovsky, Brahms, and even Frank Zappa.

Another piece the orchestra performed in Osnabrück was one of Mashayekhi's own, which blends Persian elements with western influences, showcasing precisely what sets his ensemble apart from others.

"We might be a symphony orchestra, but we're a Persian symphony orchestra," he said. "We have to make a virtue of necessity, and no one expects us to be the Berlin Philharmonic. We can be ourselves, and that means being unique in our own way. And no other orchestra can create this Persian sound, which is all about a very specific culture."

The orchestra has no shortage of international projects, but it's a different story back home -- where operas are as unwelcome as female soloists.

"It would be a dream to stage Mozart, and I have in fact found a complete Persian translation of Figaro," he said. "Somewhere, somehow, I hope we can do this."