Heavenly sights: Carnival in Venice

Jubilation breaks out: at precisely noon, angel Julia Nasi hovers 80 meters high from the Campanile bell tower on St. Mark's Square. The blue gown, covered in flowers, glimmers in the sun.The majestic "angel" opens her arms to the Doge, or Duke, waiting on the stage. The "Volo dell' Angelo" calls, marking the start of carnival.

In 1548 a Turkish acrobat allegedly climbed to the top of the Campanile. He then purportedly threw flowers down to the Doge's Palace. This story was first reenacted using a paper dove. For the past 15 years, however, magnificently costumed young women have played the role of the angel.

In Castello, one of the most traditional districts of Venice, the "Parade of Mary" commences one day before the "angel's flight." Twelve young women in glorious robes parade through the streets. At 3 p.m. they stop to sing the Venetian anthem. They will then be lifted up onto chairs and gently carried to St. Mark's Square.

Nearly 200,000 tourists come to Venice to experience carnival. Many of the city's 58,000 residents flee Venice during this time to escape the hubbub. Every store, every bakery, every restaurant is focused on tourists. Most of the masks are made in China or some other distant location with a cheap labor force.

In the small alleyways, locals celebrate their own carnival away from the tourists. Dark knights in heavy costumes saunter by, accompanied by drums. For the "Parade of Mary," carnival groups from all over the Veneto area don historical masks. Although carnival has been a long-standing tradition here, it has only existed as a street festival since 1979.

In the Venetian Republic, carnival was not only a rollicking party but also a martial competition. Massimo Andreoli, center, has dressed up as a foot soldier styled after the original uniform from 1530. The "Consortium of European Re-enactment Societies," of which Andreoli is the chairman, has played a central role in highlighting the historical depth of carnival.

The Pietro Longhi Atelier is an unassuming place. Those who don't know what the shop is would simply walk past it, but it's one of the top five tailors in town. Those invited to a costume ball - and willing to shell out the 3,000 euro entrance fee, such as for the Doge's ball - can not attend the event without first calling at Pietro Longhi's.

Franceso Briggi, owner of the Longhi Atelier, found the template for this dress in the Museo Correr. It's made of lace, velvet and silk, and costs 15,000 euros to buy, although it can also be hired for 250 euros a day. Briggi worked late into the night perfecting the costumes of the 12 virgins in the Parade of Mary. They were designed after a 1495 painting by Vittore Carpaccio.

Locals fear the trivialization of carnival. In order to stop it from becoming merely a tourist event, the Biennale, the largest employer outside the tourism industry, brings 6,000 children to Venice. The "Carnavale Internationale dei ragazzi," or Children's Carnival, is taking place this year on the Biennale grounds for the fifth time.

Outer space and the lagoon city have seemingly little in common. But both have always inspired the imagination. Bonn's Federal Art and Exhibition Hall is representing Germany at the Children's Carnival. In the central Biennale pavilion, masks can be constructed and costumes invented. It's another attempt to combat the commercialization of the festival.

Venice seeks to find new ways to preserve its traditions without being overrun by tourism. The creators of the Children's Carnival see the next generation as critical contributors to the architecture, film and art Biennale. The head of the dance Biennale has rehearsed special choreography with the children, which will be performed multiple times in the coming celebratory days.

The Rhine and Venetian carnivals came together this year: the children's prince and princess from Bonn were specially invited to join the celebrations in Venice. In full regalia, the children addressed the crowd with, "Venezia Alaaf," using the typical Rhineland carnival greeting. Just like on the Rhine, the Venetian carnival is a rocking party, says Massimo Andreoli.