Eritreans against a refugee status in Ethiopia

There is a new destination the boys leaning out of minibuses are calling, to pick up customers in Ethiopia's Tigray region, which straddles the Ethiopia-Eritrea border. The historic shift in Ethiopia-Eritrea relations means people can cross one of the world's former most dangerous borders without a passport or permit — at least theoretically.

Eritreans at the Eritrean border check point before heading north to Asmara illustrate how not all Eritreans want refugee status in Ethiopia. "I am taking my uncle to live with relatives in Asmara, though I will return to Ethiopia," says Senait, who moved to the Ethiopian capital after marrying an Ethiopian, but wasn't able to visit her Eritrean family after the 1998-2000 war closed the border.

The wide palm tree-lined avenues of Mekelle have seen a rush of Eritreans coming to reunite with their families and enjoy the vibrant social life before returning to Eritrea. Many Eritreans and the people of Tigray have shared the same language, religion and cultural and social traditions for centuries preceding Eritrea’s independence from Ethiopia in 1993.

The distinctive hairstyles and dresses shared by Tigrayan and Eritrean women make it hard to tell apart the two nationalities on the streets of Mekelle. "We have a strong affinity with Eritreans," says 35-year-old Huey Berhe in Mekelle, noting how most Tigrayans have Eritrean relatives, and vice versa. "We are the same people; I have lots of friends whose families were separated by the war."

Tired-looking cars with the distinctive Eritrean registration plate beginning ER1 can be seen joining minibuses on the main road through Tigray to the border or parked around Mekelle. "We’ve had lots of Eritreans staying," says Ruta who owns Lalibela Hotel in the center of Mekelle. There's also been a surge in room rentals in Mekelle thanks to Eritreans looking for work.

"Business is pretty good," says Tesfaye, who usually works at the cement factory outside Mekelle but at the weekend earns extra money by exchanging Ethiopian birr and Eritrean nakfa for travelers crossing the border. "It's a good opportunity while the banks aren’t changing money yet." The officially open border has seen merchandise and trade flowing freely both ways.

A worker photocopy's refugee application forms at the Tigray office for Ethiopia’s Administration for Refugee and Returnee Affairs (ARRA). "Ethiopia is a signatory to the Geneva convention on refugees, so for now their refugee status won't change," says Tekie Gebreyesas with ARRA. "The relationship between the two countries has improved, but the internal situation in Eritrea is still the same."

Lunchtime diners watch Ethiopia's popular new leader, Abiy Ahmed, who shocked all by offering peace to Eritrea. The dilemma that Ethiopia faces over Eritrean refugees reflects a global one. "Refugees are always portrayed as victims," says Milena Belloni, who researches Eritrean refugees. "It misses the reality, that they have capabilities and come with dreams, desires and aspirations."

School girls walk past the regional Tigray office of UNHCR, the United Nations' refugee organization. A UNHCR worker who wasn't willing to be quoted noted that around the world almost all countries receiving refugees do so while at peace with the country refugees are leaving — hence there is nothing unusual about Ethiopia and Eritrea reconciling while the refugee flow continues.

Construction on the outskirts of Mekelle. Regardless of the refugee status of Eritreans, the economic future of Mekelle and Asmara should be bolstered by the open border. There could be even more changes ahead. "I don't think there is any way back now for the Eritrean government," says Teberhe, a female entrepreneur in Mekelle. "Eritreans are experiencing freedom — the genie is out of the bottle."